We woke up in Skykomish to a cloudy blustery day. With the rain coming down none were excited about waiting around in the weather to hitch a ride so we put a call into the Dinsmores that live up the way and gave rides to hikers. There was a little confusion about where and when to get picked up but it was eventually sorted and we made it to the trail. It would be a long four-day trek to Stehekin. We hit the trail, quickly becoming soaked as the rain began to fall. Shortly along our way we ran into a south-bounding equestrian who’s treacherous adventure had preceded her. The story she confirmed to us was that she was taking her two horses around the washed-out section in the Glacier Mount Wilderness on the forest service detour. She had only been off her horse for less than a hundred yards when the trail gave way and her horses took a thousand foot fall. She fell about 50 ft but was more or less okay. Her horses did not fair as well. They choppered her out of there and retrieved her gear but the horses stayed as they were. I couldn’t believe she wanted to continue after something like that. It was the saddest story I’d heard on the trail. We were all concerned for her thinking of all the treacherous spots that we had just passed. We spent the rest of the day hiking through the rain.
The morning brought still more wet weather. It was colder too. We made it about six miles before we had had enough. We all decided to pull up early by a small creek to wait out Mother Nature. It was a long and miserable day. I was completely soaked; wet tent, wet sleeping bag and clothes. It was a cold soggy day. All in all, we would spend over twenty hours in our little shelters waiting for morning. I think I would have been warmer and generally happier if we had just hiked through it but I wanted to stay with the group. It was encouraging to know that better weather was forecasted for the next day. All there was to do was to make a warm meal and curl up to sleep.
When we got moving the next day we were all feeling the pressure. A short six-mile-day had left us far behind schedule and to make Stehekin at a decent hour we would have to move. Aside from being a little behind we had perhaps the most beautiful day of the trip to enjoy. The rain that had fallen on us the previous day and night had no chance to melt a thousand feet higher and when the clouds cleared from the rising sun we enjoyed a plethora of wonderful sights. As far as we could tell it was the first snow of the season. It was only a light dusting but it was enough to brighten the surrounding peaks. Just beneath the snow level the foliage was changing color. There were breath-taking shades of reds, yellows and browns below the crystal clean white snow. We were most excited for the blue sky and eagerly waited for the day to warm so we could dry our things.
Later in the day we decided to hike late, which I absolutely loath, so that we would be in better position to get in earlier to Stehekin. I had only hiked the one night out of Hikertown before meeting up with Kickstep, Annie and Buck 30. I always liked hiking early, getting my miles in, and then relaxing in camp for the evening. But there I was, hiking into the darkness after nine pm, desperately searching for a suitable campsite. Kickstep Annie and I lost heart early and settled for a mediocre spot and made camp. Buck went only about 10 more minutes and found a very nice spot but we didn’t know that until morning. I was just glad to finally be going to sleep. The next day had quite exciting potential.
There was a certain potential for disaster the following day. We had to cover over 25 miles in order for the 3 0’clock Stehekin bus to be possible and it would be a 5000 + ft day of climbing. On top of that we would also be crossing the infamous Suiattle River. It is a long log crossing over a lot of fast moving glacial melt, impossible to climb out should some poor soul fall. Many have advised not to walk but to scoot across the log for stability. Annie was especially nervous, but she had made it this far and it was hard to think any of us could be stopped at this point in the journey.
Before I continue I should probably tell a bit about Kick and Annie’s trip. It differed greatly from my own. They had started 3 weeks after I did on May 1st. I suppose they had enjoyed half of the zero days of which I indulged. Annie had foot problems for most of the trail it sounded, and she had contracted Guardia at one point. They had been under the gun to finish so they could make it to her brothers wedding in Omaha the third week of September. It was a tough way to thru-hike. There wasn’t much room for error.
In any event, after a navigation error between some old, new and incomplete trails below Glacier Peak we were now dropping toward the mighty Suattle. The error had cost us some time and we were meeting the river at the worst time, late in the day. The glacier has had all day in the sun and the river would be running at its strongest when we arrived. Closing in on the sound of rushing water, we had to navigate an enormous wash. It was obvious that the river would not be crossed at certain times of the year. The entire valley floor had be uprooted by the river and countless logs had been scattered throughout the gravel wash. Fortunately, like most things it seems, the river was all hype. It could have been forded, but wanting to stay dry Buck 30 and I eventually found the right log and walked across without incident. Kick and Annie caught us while we were trying to locate the trail on the other side of the river. Annie made an executive decision that they would both be scooting across the log on their butts. Kick told us later that the conversation went like this, “I think we could walk across.”
Annie replied calmly I’m sure, “If you walk across that log I’m breaking up with you!“ They both scooted to safety.
The evening ended with more night hiking. Two nights in a row was rough but I really wanted to stay with the group so I bit the bullet and hiked into the night for the last time. We had not seen anyone outside of our little group through the whole wilderness area and then happened on some other backpackers in the night. It was very strange. He was quite nice though, offering a flat spot right next to his tent, but not wanting to disturb more than we already had we chose another site near by.
In the morning we took off at a break-neck pace to catch the 3’oclock bus into Stehekin. Kick and Annie were going to shoot for the 6pm bus. Buck and I wanted to make it in time to hit the bakery we had been hearing so much about and have time to clean up in town. Stehekin was amazing. High mountains shot right up out of the lake and it was littered with wonderfully old log homesteads. Because of the rain delay earlier in the week we were getting to the bus with little food and huge appetites. All we could think about was the Bakery. After confirming its hours and that it was still opened we eagerly climbed aboard the bus. We quickly grew frustrated when the bus did not leave immediately. There were a number of other on the bus and Buck was becoming outraged when everyone wanted to stop at the waterfall for pictures, the old school house for a look, dropping people off at the Ranch Resort. We were pulling our hair out by the time we got to that bakery. WE finally arrived and they had everything we needed; pizza, cinnamon rolls, muffins and cookies. The bus finally made it down to the lodge and we went over to the public bath for showers and laundry while we waited for Kick and Annie to come in on the next bus. As if the bakery were not enough we had dinner at the Lodge before retiring to the campground down the street for the night.
It was hard to fathom that there was only one section left. It was a mixed emotional paradox. There was an excitement to finish such a lofty goal but at the same time it was sad to think that such adventure could end. We were all pleased to hear that the weather should not be a problem through to Canada. Canada, I don’t think I had ever considered the possibility of actually getting there until it was the only objective left to reach. My thoughts quickly turned to other adventures that would come along. I thought Stehekin would be a really nice place to bring a canoe or if I could find other places further away that would be like it. I thought about the friends I had made and wondered how much we would stay in touch or what their next adventure would be. Still there was another section to complete. No need to get all sappy just yet. I guess there is an appropriate time for such things but it would have to wait. For now I would just concentrate on savoring the last days.
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