The Suiattle Scoot

  We woke up in Skykomish to a cloudy blustery day.  With the rain coming down none were excited about waiting around in the weather to hitch a ride so we put a call into the Dinsmores that live up the way and gave rides to hikers.  There was a little confusion about where and when to get picked up but it was eventually sorted and we made it to the trail.  It would be a long four-day trek to Stehekin. 

We hit the trail, quickly becoming soaked as the rain began to fall.  Shortly along our way we ran into a south-bounding equestrian who’s treacherous adventure had preceded her.  The story she confirmed to us was that she was taking her two horses around the washed-out section in the Glacier Mount Wilderness on the forest service detour.   She had only been off her horse for less than a hundred yards when the trail gave way and her horses took a thousand foot fall.   She fell about 50 ft but was more or less okay.  Her horses did not fair as well.  They choppered her out of there and retrieved her gear but the horses stayed as they were.  I couldn’t believe she wanted to continue after something like that.  It was the saddest story I’d heard on the trail.  We were all concerned for her thinking of all the treacherous spots that we had just passed.  We spent the rest of the day hiking through the rain. 

The morning brought still more wet weather.  It was colder too.  We made it about six miles before we had had enough.  We all decided to pull up early by a small creek to wait out Mother Nature.  It was a long and miserable day.  I was completely soaked; wet tent, wet sleeping bag and clothes.  It was a cold soggy day.  All in all, we would spend over twenty hours in our little shelters waiting for morning.  I think I would have been warmer and generally happier if we had just hiked through it but I wanted to stay with the group.  It was encouraging to know that better weather was forecasted for the next day.  All there was to do was to make a warm meal and curl up to sleep. 

When we got moving the next day we were all feeling the pressure.  A short six-mile-day had left us far behind schedule and to make Stehekin at a decent hour we would have to move.  Aside from being a little behind we had perhaps the most beautiful day of the trip to enjoy.  The rain that had fallen on us the previous day and night had no chance to melt a thousand feet higher and when the clouds cleared from the rising sun we enjoyed a plethora of wonderful sights.  As far as we could tell it was the first snow of the season.  It was only a light dusting but it was enough to brighten the surrounding peaks.  Just beneath the snow level the foliage was changing color.  There were breath-taking shades of reds, yellows and browns below the crystal clean white snow.  We were most excited for the blue sky and eagerly waited for the day to warm so we could dry our things. 

Later in the day we decided to hike late, which I absolutely loath, so that we would be in better position to get in earlier to Stehekin.  I had only hiked the one night out of Hikertown before meeting up with Kickstep, Annie and Buck 30.  I always liked hiking early, getting my miles in, and then relaxing in camp for the evening.  But there I was, hiking into the darkness after nine pm, desperately searching for a suitable campsite.  Kickstep Annie and I lost heart early and settled for a mediocre spot and made camp.  Buck went only about 10 more minutes and found a very nice spot but we didn’t know that until morning.  I was just glad to finally be going to sleep.  The next day had quite exciting potential. 

There was a certain potential for disaster the following day.  We had to cover over 25 miles in order for the 3 0’clock Stehekin bus to be possible and it would be a 5000 + ft day of climbing.  On top of that we would also be crossing the infamous Suiattle River.  It is a long log crossing over a lot of fast moving glacial melt, impossible to climb out should some poor soul fall.  Many have advised not to walk but to scoot across the log for stability.  Annie was especially nervous, but she had made it this far and it was hard to think any of us could be stopped at this point in the journey.  

Before I continue I should probably tell a bit about Kick and Annie’s trip.  It differed greatly from my own.  They had started 3 weeks after I did on May 1^st.  I suppose they had enjoyed half of the zero days of which I indulged.  Annie had foot problems for most of the trail it sounded, and she had contracted Guardia at one point.  They had been under the gun to finish so they could make it to her brothers wedding in Omaha the third week of September.  It was a tough way to thru-hike.  There wasn’t much room for error. 

In any event, after a navigation error between some old, new and incomplete trails below Glacier Peak we were now dropping toward the mighty Suattle.  The error had cost us some time and we were meeting the river at the worst time, late in the day.  The glacier has had all day in the sun and the river would be running at its strongest when we arrived.  Closing in on the sound of rushing water, we had to navigate an enormous wash.  It was obvious that the river would not be crossed at certain times of the year.  The entire valley floor had be uprooted by the river and countless logs had been scattered throughout the gravel wash.  Fortunately, like most things it seems, the river was all hype.  It could have been forded, but wanting to stay dry Buck 30 and I eventually found the right log and walked across without incident.  Kick and Annie caught us while we were trying to locate the trail on the other side of the river.  Annie made an executive decision that they would both be scooting across the log on their butts.  Kick told us later that the conversation went like this, “I think we could walk across.”

Annie replied calmly I’m sure, “If you walk across that log I’m breaking up with you!“  They both scooted to safety. 

The evening ended with more night hiking.  Two nights in a row was rough but I really wanted to stay with the group so I bit the bullet and hiked into the night for the last time.  We had not seen anyone outside of our little group through the whole wilderness area and then happened on some other backpackers in the night.  It was very strange.  He was quite nice though, offering a flat spot right next to his tent, but not wanting to disturb more than we already had we chose another site near by. 

In the morning we took off at a break-neck pace to catch the 3’oclock bus into Stehekin.  Kick and Annie were going to shoot for the 6pm bus.  Buck and I wanted to make it in time to hit the bakery we had been hearing so much about and have time to clean up in town.  Stehekin was amazing.  High mountains shot right up out of the lake and it was littered with wonderfully old log homesteads.  Because of the rain delay earlier in the week we were getting to the bus with little food and huge appetites.  All we could think about was the Bakery.  After confirming its hours and that it was still opened we eagerly climbed aboard the bus.  We quickly grew frustrated when the bus did not leave immediately.  There were a number of other on the bus and Buck was becoming outraged when everyone wanted to stop at the waterfall for pictures, the old school house for a look, dropping people off at the Ranch Resort.  We were pulling our hair out by the time we got to that bakery.  WE finally arrived and they had everything we needed; pizza, cinnamon rolls, muffins and cookies.  The bus finally made it down to the lodge and we went over to the public bath for showers and laundry while we waited for Kick and Annie to come in on the next bus.  As if the bakery were not enough we had dinner at the Lodge before retiring to the campground down the street for the night. 

It was hard to fathom that there was only one section left.  It was a mixed emotional paradox.  There was an excitement to finish such a lofty goal but at the same time it was sad to think that such adventure could end.   We were all pleased to hear that the weather should not be a problem through to Canada.  Canada, I don’t think I had ever considered the possibility of actually getting there until it was the only objective left to reach.  My thoughts quickly turned to other adventures that would come along.  I thought Stehekin would be a really nice place to bring a canoe or if I could find other places further away that would be like it.  I thought about the friends I had made and wondered how much we would stay in touch or what their next adventure would be.  Still there was another section to complete.  No need to get all sappy just yet.  I guess there is an appropriate time for such things but it would have to wait.  For now I would just concentrate on savoring the last days. 

Back in the Backyard

We left I-90 in the afternoon. There were wildfires burning in the next section so we were taking an alternate route that would take us around the hot spots. Starting from the Alpental trailhead, we started up a sharp but short climb to Snow Lake. It was a pretty popular spot, and as it was a beautiful day, there were plenty of poeple out. The nicely groomed trail quickly gave way a few miles beyond the lake to a rugged steep brush covered path. The alternate was to shave a few miles but the nature of the trail probably evened things out timing wise. Our goal was about 10 miles and when we arive we made camp. It would be a long night.

I fell asleep after a quick dinner and slept for a few hours. I was awakened by a strong rain against the tent and if that hadn't rousted the others the following thunder certainly did. It was quite the storm. What it lacked in wind it made up for in sheer volume. I could feel the thunder in my chest. It was rather startling. After a sky splitting explosion, I thought it was the very loudest thunder I had ever heard, only to be proven wrong by the following blast. When I opened my eyes the tent repeatedly lit up with the flash of lightning. They were so close together it was impossible to count the seconds between the flash and the thunder, but it was aparent that the storm couldn't get any closer.

The morning finally came and the rain subsided. We packed up our soggy tents and complained of the extra weight we had to carry now that things were saturated. We put in about 24 miles and made it back to the PCT. We all were thankful to be back on good tread. It was pretty uneventful hiking. It was raining most of the morning and we were rather soaked. Luckily when we joined the PCT some other hikers had stopped for the day and had a fire going. It was a lovely surprise and a nice little break before moving on. Near the end of the day we found ourselves in the middle of a climb and couldn't camp exactly when we wanted to. I've been hiking later into the evening with Buck, Kickstep and Annie so I get a little cranky when camping cannot be found and the day stretches toward 8.

We wanted to wake early and get a good start, but it was a rather cold morning and we all lingered in our tents before making our move to the trail. It was a nicer day from the start and we dried our things at lunch. There were some nice climbs. 2000 ft took us over a ridge and we came out with a nice view of Glacier Peak. We'd camp within 8 miles of the pass at a lake. It would be another rainy night.

In the morning it was not raining while I ate breakfast but when I went to get out of the tent of course the drops started to fall. That made packing up a very quick operation and we were soon on our way. More climbing and Buck 30 and I had broken away from the couple. Dad was at the pass with the BBQ so we didn't take any breaks on our way to the trailhead. It was funny being back at Stevens Pass. The trail follows the chairlifts up the backside of the resort and everything was familiar to me. I told buck about a bunch of trips up to the resort and where we would go; the cat tracks and shoots and diamond runs as if he cared. Up and over the last ridge, right next to the Tye Mill chairlift, we quickly made our way down and ran into Uncle Tony as he was coming up the trail to meet us. Then my cousin Josh came around the corner and we all walked down together. There were a bunch of people there to great us. Dad had the BBQ going just like he said and we ate to our hearts content.

It was fun to see everyone. After all the festivities we made our way into Skykomish and found a hostel type place to relax and dry out. I can't believe this is our second to last town stop. We'll get to Stihekan in about 4 days and then its only another four into the boarder. Somehow, even after the whole summer and all the miles, I'm quite surprised to be this close. I don't know how a goal that I've had my eye one for more than a year could sneak up on me, but it did. I'm sure it will be all over all too soon. I'm taking every opportunity to enjoy the time I have left and I'm glad I've made some good friends in Buck 30, Kickstep, and Annie to share it with.

The Dude Abides

Finally into the final state, my spirits lifted and I hiked with a new confidence that I might actually, truly reach the Canadian boarder. The beginning of the WA trail was a slow and steady climb through some clear cuts and under power lines. The only real scenery was a look back down the Columbia River Gorge behind.

I soon caught Steve and Bethany, a couple whom had past Uncle Tony and me a couple days ago. They are both teachers and have taught across the country at different intervals which allow them to travel and participate in a number of trip and adventures between teaching gigs. Steve is a tall slender dude with a billowing low baritone voice. He grew up in South America and has wonderful stories of the people and culture of his youth. Bethany is a soft faced young women with dark hair and a warm personable presence. She's from Seattle and it sounds as if they will end up there after the hike. I really enjoyed hiking with these two. The seem to have a wonderful passion for living well and with an intention and purpose. The are both vegan so it is always interesting to see what they have for dinner. Their main staple is an Andean grain called quinwa that is high in calorie and a good source of protein. We eventually linked up with I Spy and Booty, and it became for me, a first rate education in relationships on the trail. Both couples worked wonderfully together. By now there was a system and procedure in place for cooking meals and setting up camp. Would be nice to have someone to share the work and help motivate a hiker out here. They sure brought a unique perspective to the idea of dating or marriage. It really doesn't seem too bad if you can get out and go places like these couples were doing.

So close to the end now, we all talked of other trips and hikes we would like to do. There are marathons to be attempted and triathlons to train for. Much research is needed in the areas of the Idaho Centennial Trail, paddling the Inside Passage, or trekking abroad in other countries. I exchanged contact info with Steve and Bethany in hopes of doing some cycling and running together in Seattle after the trail. They are getting off at I-90 to attend Bumper Shoot so I'll be finishing a few days before they'll get done.

We all hiked together through the Goat Rock Wilderness south of White Pass. We also saw Buck 30 and Kickstep and Annie as well. It was a challenging section with wonderful views of Rainier in the distance. We saw mountain goats and elk. The great weather and beautiful sunsets made it the most scenic area yet, I think. There was a great section, trekking on the top of a "knife blade", that is the top of a very slender ridge. It was near the end of the day and we were all trying to get off of it before dark. Booty, I Spy and I made it a little more difficult by taking the stock trail around a steep section. It only added a bit of distance and about 800 ft of climbing but we had amazing views atop of Old Snowy Mountain. Anyhow, we all made it safely off and then took off for White Pass in the morning.

I tried to be up and moving early but I never caught Buck 30. He is a wild man on town days, trying to get in as early as possible. I made it to the small store and gas station around 12:30, a good hour after Buck. Dad was there waiting for me with the resupply. Its so much fun to see family on the trail. Eventually all the couples made it into the store and we hung out eating the fried deli food in the gas station for the afternoon. There was laundry there too so that was a plus, but the only shower was a hose behind the station. I made it work. Unfortunately I Spy and Booty didn't receive their resupply box so when dad was leaving he gave them a ride to I-5 and they were going to hitch back to Cascade Locks for a trail days weekend. I was bummed to not be hiking with them anymore but we vowed to stay in touch. We all left the store around 6 and hiked in 3 miles to camp at a lake. Since it was a short trek to camp Kickstep packed in a 6-pack and we all enjoyed a cold one at dinner.

In the morning I was up and going early. I wanted to get thirty in so it would be a short hike to the cabin the next day. I was again saddened to leave Steve and Bethany behind because they were drawing out their hike to Snoqualmie, getting picked up on Wednesday the day after we would be getting, so they could get to Bumper Shoot. I saw a ton of elk that morning but it was impossible to get a picture through all the underbrush. I hope I can eventually get a good picture of the massive beasts. I hiked most of the day alone and got my thirty in. The next day I took my time making miles as I was only trying for 20. There was a cabin built by a snowmobile club that we wanted to stay at. It was on the edge a the very beautiful Government Meadows, called Camp Urich. I got in at about 4:30 and waited for my friends. Avo showed up. I thought he was ahead of us but he had taken a zero and was now catching up. Buck, Kickstep and Annie followed shortly and we all had a nice evening in the cabin with some dinner and hot chocolate.

First to get going in the morning again I spooked yet another heard of elk just beyond the meadow. Still, in the dim lighting and with all the brush I could not get a decent picture. They are quite stealthy as they move slowly through the forest grazing on branch and limb but when they are spooked they move through the undergrowth with all the grace and silence of a boulder crashing through the trees. Its quite startling when they decide to up and go. I ended up hiking a few miles extra that day on account of not finding suitable camping. I was able to get a cell signal and catch the folks to let them know what time I would be into Snoqualmie the next day. Then finally I made camp just before dark at Stirrup Creek. Town in the morning.

Up even earlier with the excitement of family and town, I set off to close the 13 mile gap. I hiked quickly through a foggy and damp forest. Clouds moved through the trees as I went up and down over the ridges. It was very muggy for how cool it was and the moisture just clung to my cloths and pack. About halfway there I spotted a wonderful sight. It one of the prettiest features that nature cannot produce, a small white styrofoam cooler. It had a trail register with it so I signed in and looked inside. There were a few sodas. I took a 5 and drank one down before continuing. Coming over the last rise to the ski resort I looked down to the highway below and left the trail to make a B-line for the Summit Inn where we all decided we would stay. Buck caught me right at the bottom of the slope and we made haste to check in. Shortly after getting showered I got a call from Grandma and Grandpa who had come to visit. After that the welcoming committee continued to pull in through the last of the morning. Mom and Dad were there. My friend Mike and Carol and Cousin Dana came. Grandma and Grandpa Rogers came and even Uncle Tony had recovered to come and visit again. Even our friend Kelly came from the Stanwood/ Camano paper to ask me questions for an article. Yeah, I'm gonna be famous. It was quite the party.

We all went down the road to a little picnic area to have lunch and hang out. It was so much fun to see everyone and they all brought wonderful food to enjoy. Its already so nice to be close to family again. We spent the rest of the afternoon together but eventually everyone had to make the drive home. After goodbyes I headed back to the room to start relaxing.

I really enjoy hiking with Buck and Kickstep and Annie. We are trying to make plans that will finish out the trail together. I'm getting excited to be finishing up soon. I have been nervous about reentering society and looking for work, but with the folks I have met on trail I've gained a confidence that I know things will work out. Whatever happens or whatever I end up doing I know I'll be happy. However you what to say it, "come what may", "thou mayst", or " the Dude abides", the details in life don't matter but the people they associate with do. Plus its more fun not knowing whats around the corner all the time.

Oregon I Bearly Knew You

After breakfast I yogied a hitch out of Sister after a bit of doing. No one was stopping after a fun weekend in the mountains, so I headed across the street to just ask for a ride at the gas station. There was a prime candidate fueling up. It was an SUV with a kayaks on tops. When I ask if he was headed over the pass to the PCT, he pointed out his two boys in the back seat and said there was no room. I told him briefly I was just trying to continue my thru-hike of the PCT and then I went back across the street to spring my trap. To leave the gas station they would have to pull up to the intersection facing me and then turn left across traffic to pass directly in front of me, so I waited. When they pulled out I put on my most desperate and pathetic, needy face but all while managing a meager smile and hoped. Sure enough, after turning they pulled onto the shoulder and said, " Ah we can make room." I was very grateful and we enjoyed a delightful round of Q and A regarding my trip during the ride up the pass.

Happily on my way again, I made great time passing many a day-hiker and the weekend warriors making their way back to the trail head after their weekend wilderness adventure. I was sad to be leaving Hop Skip but I knew I would be catching I Spy and Booty soon. At the end of the day I met Doug, a thru-hiker from the east coast and an AT vet. He kept a brisk pace and we made it to camp early. We hiked together for a few days and made good time. We constantly quoted Monte Python to entertain ourselves and fantasized about the glorious breakfast that awaited us at our next stop, Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood. I was particularly excited to get to the lodge because my grandma and grandpa were dropping off my Uncle Tony who would be hiking with me to the WA boarder. The section was mostly uneventful. The only excitement were three black bear encounters. One I didn't exactly see, but he was close. I could hear him moving through the brush away from me. The other two times the bears were also quick to run away.

The day before we were to get to Timberline, Doug and I were determined to get as close to the lodge as possible before making camp. We ended up hiking my longest day yet of 39 miles. I was exhausted but we were only 5 miles out. The next morning we were up and at it early. There was a steep climb up the south slope of Mount Hood and it would have been even shorter to the lodge but there was a huge ravine that had to be hiked up and around and then back down to the lodge. We were there before breakfast was even being served and we were first in line to get some. It was quite a feast. There was fresh squeezed orange juice, waffles, eggs, bacon, sausage, the works. We sat and ate several helpings a piece and finished by the time the family drove up.

After the long day before, I was looking forward to hiking with my uncle and scaling back the mileage for a bit. The trail just skirts around Mount Hood with great views of Mount Jefferson from which I had just hiked. We put in about 10 miles after breakfast and made camp. The next two days were a cool 15 miles a piece and we took a recommended alternate route to the Columbia down Eagle Creek. It was a gorgeous trail. It followed the creek as it winds toward the mighty Columbia but it was on a ledge for a bit of the time, high above the running water below. There were wonderful waterfalls, even one you could walk behind. When we got to the trail head Wolfman was waiting there for some hikers. He was hoping another thru-hiker could take him up to a trail and then slack his car back to the trail head. Tony wasn't to excited about the final 3 miles into the town of Cascade Locks so he drove him up there and then when the folks got into town, they were able to grab him from the trail head after the car was back. Then we were finally at the Bridge of the Gods.

The Bridge of the Gods is the bridge from Cascade Locks into Stevenson, crossing into the last state of the trip. It was a huge milestone, but there were other reasons to be happy to be so far. My friends Zach and Rachel that live in Gresham were able to come out to visit and Marc and Nicole even made the drive down from Seattle. Its been amazing to make new friends on the trail but it is very special to have old friends come out to visit. We had a great time in town. We swam in the Columbia and then had dinner at the Walking Man brewery in Stevenson. We spent the night back across the river in Cascade Locks. I couldn't believe that after spending three months in California, Oregon was over in a matter of weeks. The next morning we had breakfast and then in was back to the trail. Dad slacked my pack across the bridge and we walked together back into the home state.