Yosemite the cherry on top

            After a long and trying effort, I’ve managed to negotiate the famed Sierra Nevada Mountains.  I can’t tell you how relieved I am to have one of the most difficult sections of the trail completed, but it’s not without a little disappointment knowing that some of the most breathtaking views and scenery and some of the most beautiful people I’ve met are now behind me.  Ahead lie lower elevations, dryer conditions and higher mileage days.  If all goes to plan I should be approaching my Canadian goal at a more rapid pace from here on out.  

            Weeks ago I left the small city of Lone Pine for the second time to conquer Glen Pass.  At over 12,000ft, it had already turned me back once, but with better weather conditions and a more able and equipped group to hike with I would not be denied again.   It was after lunch by the time we managed a hitch to the trailhead, and after making my way over Kerserge Pass for the fourth time it was getting late so we camped just below 10,000ft at Charlotte Lake.   Still plenty cold out, we built a fire.  A campfire is always dependable for lifting the spirits of a weary hiker.  Around the small flames sat Adam Jones, Dan and Anna Pizzo (DNA), UK Andy West, Jon Michelle, and myself.  It is quite the inter-cultural group.  Adam, leaving his hometown of Brokenbow, OK to join the trail, put his firefighting career on hold to hike for the summer. He, Anna, and I made up the half of the group that is homegrown.  Dan of DNA grew up in Italy but then lived in England for a number of years before moving to the DC area where he met his wife Anna in her home state of Virginia.  Dan worked for a while as the assistant director of Georgetown’s outdoor edu. program, and Anna has work in a local prison ministry for a few years.  Next is UK Andy West.  You guessed it.  He’s from England.  He studied botany in college so he became our foremost expert on foraging wild eatables along the trail.  He also completed the Continental Divide Trail just last year through the Rocky Mountains.  Finally, Jon Michelle, a retired Frenchman, with a mixture of a retro pack and fancy high-tech gear usually brought up the rear of our international hiking train.  We made quite a team. 

            The next day we were up and over Glen Pass.  Our turning around the first time proved to be a good decision as the terrain was quite steep.  We all had our axes out and at the ready.  Taking it slow and steady we made it down without incident.  Only Andy had a slip but executed a perfect self-arrest with his pick.  Of the next four days, each had its own high pass to accomplish before we would be in Vermilion Valley Resort.  Next came Pinchot Pass, then Mather, Muir, and Selden.  All were over 11,000 ft with the exception of Selden at 10,800.  Most were pretty steep which turned out to be easier than we new at the time.  You would hike to the base and break out the ax, then kick steps till you got to the top and make your way down.  Pinchot was especially fun coming down, as there were wonderful opportunities to glissade down the snowy slopes.  Muir Pass was the most difficult in my opinion.  It was a very gradual slop up to the top, which translated into about three miles of snow travel on both sides of the pass. 

The weather was also very difficult through this section.  Everyday from Lone Pine to Tuolumne at some point in the day it would either rain or snow on us.  At each pass’ summit there were storm clouds waiting for us but none as bad as the one that turned us back early on.  When the sun did come out, however, every effort was rewarded.  The pictures cannot do justice to the panoramas that could be seen from such heights.  This is no doubt a very special area and I encourage everyone to hike it, but just wait till July. 

The other difficulty was the water.  After whining and complaining of a lack of water through the numerous desert miles, I would have never imagined that there could be too much.  Right in the middle of the spring melt; water was flooding off the mountainsides.  Streams were high.  We appropriately renamed the trail John Muir Creek as it was under water almost as often as it was clear.  At one point, creeks and lakes overflowing their banks, trout were swimming up and down the trail as we dredged through.  Happily in my waterproof, full-grain leather boots, I couldn’t imagine how uncomfortable the others must be in their soaking wet trail runners.  My boots are about two or three times heavier than their lightweight kicks but I did not envy the difference in weight in these conditions. 

Rain, snow, sleet, and all we made it to VVR.  There was a restaurant that was taken advantage of and small store.  They also let the first eight hikers take a large canvas tent so we quickly found our spots in case others lingered in.  It wasn’t a full days rest but sense we got into the resort early in the day we decided to hike on the next day.  We took a boat ride over the lake back to the trail.  There were a few more high passes over the next few days and we were in to Reds Meadows.  This was bitter sweet.  It was a nice stop but our group was splitting up.  DNA, UK Andy, and Jon Michelle were catching the bus into Mammoth Lakes for resupply but Adam and I decided to hike on.  He was hoping to make it to Tahoe to meet a friend and I was looking forward to Sonora Pass to get picked up to make it to a wedding. 

Away from the group now, the pace of the hike changed.  We were waking up a little later, hiking later into the evening, and making better mileage.  The weather was changing for the better as well.  We abandoned our tents under the starry skies.  Deer wandered close to our camp at dusk and we moved into Yosemite National Park.  In every direction there were granite dome peaks, beautiful alpine meadows, and fast moving rivers and waterfalls.   Several times river crossings demanded that we carry our packs above our heads and wade through the frigid water. 

I really enjoyed hiking with Adam.  We had a lot of great conversation and laughs.  Most of the time Adam, hiking at a much faster pace, would lead out and I would catch up later for a break or something.  All along the way it was hard to get over the beauty of the national park.  Tuolumne Meadows was incredible.  Its no wonder we saw more and more hikers the closer we got to the valley.  We made it to Sanora Pass a day and half early so I hitched into the central valley with some weekend campers and met up with Chase in Lodi.  It was nice to get back to San Diego for a bit after that and see my friend get married.  We had a lot of fun and I saw a lot of people, but I look forward to being back on the trail.  I’ll be moving as fast as possible.  I’d like to catch up to the group that I was hiking with before I took a break. 

I’m getting back on the trail tomorrow morning.  In a few days I’ll be stopping at Ecko Lake and then I’ll be on to Sierra City.  Hopefully I can make some friends with some car campers on the 4^th and score a barbeque dinner or something.  I feel like I’m over a major hurdle and can’t wait to see what the trail brings next.