Sunday, August 9, 2009

Into Oregon

We had a bit of trouble leaving Etna. Ther isn't a large commuter pool in a town of 700, but we were finally saved by the Mayor of Etna himself. He was just on his way up to the summit to get away from all the stresses of civil administration, and after a very winding and steep twelve mile drive we were back on the trail in the heat of the afternoon.

Wild Child and I quickly left Atlas behind. He hikes at a slower pace do to his unique walking stick. A gymnast in real life, he ducked taped two four foot sticks of rebar to keep his arms in shape, but the stick must weigh 15 lbs. The two of us pulled up at a lake about 12 miles along. We made dinner and then Atlas caught us in time to go for a swim before bed. It’s always nice to go for a dip before crawling into your sleeping bag.

The next day we passed a number of people on horseback with pack mules. They’re always interesting to see but the animals take a toll on the trail. One man, by the name of Bronze, had a pack mule and was using only equipment available to backcountry travelers in the 1800s. He had wool blanket bedding, buckskin trousers, wooden framed stock saddle, and only moccasins to protect his feet from the trail. He said it is a trough way to travel as anyone could imagine but he was enjoying the experience and he was only going from the Oregon border to Big Bear.

The following day was spent losing a lot of altitude and a gaining a lot of heat. It was a long decent down to the Klamath River just a bit over 1000 ft and well over 100 degrees. There was a long road walk to the store and the post office once the trail came to the bottom of the valley. I passed a few old country houses with barn and garden out front. The property around one such house retained a strong and interesting fragrance about their vegetable garden that seems to be very prevalent in some of the rural mountain communities the trail passes through. Along the highway there were countless black berry bushes growing into the lanes and other hikers reported seeing a black bear enjoying them right from the road. I didn’t see any bears but I did see the largest four point buck I’d ever seen on the walk into town.

Beautiful Mt. Shasta

The town of Seiad Valley consists of only a few houses and a cafĂ©, small store, and post office all in the same building. Seiad is home to the famed pancake challenge. I knew I had made the right decision not to partake when I saw Atlas attempt the feat. It is five one pound pancakes, and most thru-hikers can barely eat half the stack. It was terribly hot and we all took refuge from the heat at the RV park next door that let us use their showers and sit inside their office with our ice-cream from the store. We decided to not start the 5000 ft climb out of the valley until 7pm. Unfortunately it was still almost 100 degrees when we left but as we gained in altitude we reached a light breeze and conditions quickly became manageable at the very least. I had left Seiad with Too Obtuse and Buck Thirty. We had a good time giving each other a hard time about just about everything. Obtuse is a veteran of the AT from New Hampshire and had hiked the PCT in 04 with $1.30. I quickly became familiar with personalities of the 04 hike from the many stories they reminisced over. $1.30 grew up in Rochester but was now living Pacific Beach just a few minutes’ drive from where I had been living in Ocean beach. We spent hours talking of all the places we missed around San Diego and, I think, drove Obtuse to a desperate boredom of our conversation. It was a relatively short hike into Ashland from there. The second day out of Seiad we finally left the confines of the great state of California. The trail had stretched and meandered for almost 1700 miles in this, the first state on the trip and the cross into Oregon was a great relief, making us feel as if we could very well make it into Canada after all. Our high spirits were quickly tested however, as a violent thunder and lightning storm welcomed us to Oregon on our first night in the state. Just as we had made camp and climbed in our tents it began to rain. The thunder grew louder and louder and at a point there were lightning flashes every few seconds. The rain turned to hail that quickly grew to the size of marbles. Luckily the tent held its ground and I stayed warm and dry, but I didn’t sleep particularly well.

Headed toward Oregon and then on to Washington.


Nick and Too Obtuse

It was a pleasant and uneventful trek into Ashland. We were fortunate to get a hitch right away. Thomas picked us up in his Toyota pickup and was more than helpful with explaining the layout of his fine town. He was a free spirit in transition, moving from the large metropolises of downtown Ashland a few miles away to the house he had just completed in the hills surrounding the town. Ashland did feel like a larger city after the last two town stops could not muster more than 1000 residence in the both of them combined. We ate lots of food and watched Blazing Saddles on cable in the motel. At the library we met Chuck Norris and Tigger, two PCT hikers that were taking turns hiking the trail this year and giving rides and help to other hikers in town. We got a ride to the trailhead from them the following day. Every hikers they meet signs their van, so we all made our mark and then made our way up the trail.

I was anxious to make miles, because my parents would be meeting me at Crater Lake so the family could go to a wedding in Salem. Dad had been able to make the drive all the way to Lone Pine for a short visit but the fam had not been together for a long time and I had been missing my mom and sister quite a bit, plus weddings are always good for some tasty chow and dancing. The day we left Ashland we pushed it to Hyatt Lake 25 miles away and took advantage of good camping and showers before turning in. The next day we were up early and I put in the longest day yet. Trying to get in as early as possible in the day that I was meeting mom and dad, I put in 35 miles. The plan was to make another 35 the following day but I was ready to shut things down after 30 which left 15 to Crater Lake the following day. I made it to Crater a little after noon and met the folks. It was so nice to see them and after getting cleaned up and a bite to eat we headed for the wedding. It was nice to see Andrea, my sister up from Mexico to fulfill her duties as Maid of Honor. It was weird putting on some nice slacks and a clean shirt for the wedding. I even shaved my dirty facial hair off to complete the look of a normal person who might live in an actual house or have a job.


Hanging Out at the Wedding.


I had a lot of fun at the wedding and driving around Oregon with the family. I’m excited to keep hiking now that I’m on through to the second state in the trip. I know I still have about 900 mile left but it really feels like I’m getting close. I’ve had a couple days off so I’m curious to see who will be hiking around me this time and if I can catch up to my friends. I’ll be so excited to continue some high mileage and get into the home state. Hopefully the weather will hold for us and we won’t hit too much rain. The towns start getting a little more spread out from here. Just a few more stops till WA and then there are only five more resupply stops till Manning Park BC. The end is slowly approaching, but its just a reminder to enjoy what I have while I have it. I’m still eager to see what each day will bring with each challenge and blessing.

Dropping Nick back off at Crater Lake


Crater Lake


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